The Representation Of Different History Periods In Fashion Collections

From Victorian era till today, the corset has a long and checkered history. Its disappearance and reappearance links to the changing shapes of female body throughout the history. But this staple garment which was used as an underwear in the Victorian era has now being reclaimed as an outerwear. Seen as a symbol of oppression and the desire to control the female body shape according to the male gaze, this garment has changed its purpose.

The new feel of this staple outerwear is its lack of adherence to traditional idea of ‘sexiness’ which is evident in Miuccia Prada’s Fall 2016 Collection. Keeping the soft hourglass shape, Prada tried to fit the corsets loosely where waists were fitted but not cinched. In this Prada’s Fall 2016 Collection, models were seen wearing fabric corset belts on top of oversized coats or shirts. She showed white versions of corsets made of knit and denim and brought them out of under, using it as an outerwear, stating the idea of support, rather than seduction. She celebrated the idea of strength, power and beauty of women who wants to dress for themselves rather than the stereotypical male gaze, as was the case in Victorian era. These images clearly show how corsets were used as an undergarment in past, whereas now, designers are still taking inspiration from past, but changing it according to the needs of current era, thus using it as an outer garment.

During the Edwardian era, the fashion style included an S-shaped silhouette, high neck collars, ruffles, puffy sleeves and use of excessive amount of lace. The general style of this era was much more liberating than the Victorian era, while retaining a sense of modesty within it. This Edwardian elegance is found in Zimmermann’s RTW Spring 2016 Collection. While Zimmermann has included a mid-waistline in her pieces, yet she lacks the S-shaped silhouette which was so famous in Edwardian era. The high neck collar with ruffles, corset like bodices and flouncy hem is seen throughout the collection, thus singing the Edwardian fashion the most. Modernizing the collection, Zimmermann has varied the skirt and dresses length as compared to the restrictions of Edwardian era making it feminine and giving it an edgy look at the same time. All laced up backs and sheer embroideries showing skin adds to the sense of romanticism. These images clearly show the use of high neck collars, ruffles and laces in Edwardian era as well as in today’s time period. All in all, Zimmermann changed and added some elements to give the pieces a modern yet classy look like changing long skirts from past to short flouncy hemlines and using figure enhancing corset like bodices.

Soon after the Edwardian era, World War 1 was observed which impacted a lot on women’s fashion of the time. Rigid and tailored lines were lost from the clothing. As men were serving their lives to fight, women had to take on jobs in munitions factories, hospitals, administrative fields, farms, as drivers, telephone operators etc. They also served in organizations like Red Cross and military which required wearing of uniforms including trousers and short skirts. This brought a new look in women’s fashion including tunic style jackets, belts, utilitarian pockets and sober and muted colors. This look of World War 1 is evident in Marc Jacob’s RTW Spring 2015 Collection. Uniformity, utility and conforming to the casual look is the basis of Jacob’s normcore collection. He kept the military influence in his collection evident through the cargo pants, long coats, jackets and utilitarian pockets, though adding the sheer and satin fabric gave a fashion forward feel to the collection. V-necked dress belted at the waist to fit the oversize shape, large cargo pockets, shinier buttons weren’t giving the uniforms, a typical uniform look. Marc Jacob’s no makeup look was another element from War time since women weren’t using any lavish jewelries and makeup from Edwardian era. The colors in the collection were also sober and muted, thus military inspired. These images clearly show how Marc Jacob was inspired by the women’s fashion during World War 1 and used all the elements from past like jackets, pants, cargo pockets and sober colors, yet adding shinier fabric and changing the cut-lines to give a fresher, yet fashion forward feel.

Soon after the World War 1 ended, there was a huge shift in fashion. Society changed rapidly due to the advancements of customs, technology and all the manufacturing industry and so does the fashion. Hemlines rose, old fashioned corsets and crinolines no longer served the need of flappers - young women who were free and who wanted to live their lives according to their will by dancing, going to work, hopping into cars and walking around the town. These were the first generation of young women who actually pushed the boundaries of economical, political and social freedom for women. Thus, the fashion in the 1920s then started to reflect the fact that people had money. The fabrics, embellishments, beads, fringes and accessories used in evening dresses were all expensive. Young women (flappers) wore high heels, applied cosmetics and favored short bob cut hairstyle. Art Deco, sharp angular lines and bright colors, also came into vogue during this era.

This fashion change from 1920s and all its elements are found in Roberto Cavalli’s RTW Fall 2014 Collection. Evening gowns with beaded Art Deco columns, use of faux collars and fringes were part of Roberto Cavalli’s collection. The dropped waist dresses and models with bold eye makeup recalled the era of flappers. The designer gave the collection a complete inspiration from 1920s by weaving the flames into jacquards, included fur with them and making them slim and straight cut rather than body fitted. The color blocking and geometric designs with embroideries gave the pieces an Art Deco inspired feel. These images clearly show the flapper look from past and also that how the designer, Roberto Cavalli, was inspired by the Roaring 20s era by including Art Deco elements, beadings, fringes and faux fur to his collection.