Double Cloth Structure To Facilitate Versatile Application Of Denim Fabric

Abstract: Denim is the most popular dress material to any age of people. Day by day its demand increasing swiftly because of western life style & fashion has accelerated with the trend of casualization across the globe. Now a day present structure of denim (regular, stretch) cannot cover the versatile field of human needs owing to its comfort & stiffness problem. So, it is very important to diversification of denim fabrics according to the customer demand and also acquisition the consumer.

The main goal of the study is to development of double cloth structure in denim with 30s/1 & 20s/1 cotton (CW) yarn by some selected structure. That will create new era by promoting versatility keeping with comfort factor. We have manufactured denim fabric by using double cloth structure that will give versatility & it affects thermo-physiological comfort. The warmth of a fabric is due to insulation provided by air trapped. Such application like top garments, baby & kids wear, jacket, coat, cloth for winter season etc. Developed sample has tested & compared with regular denim on the basis of visual appearance, GSM, tensile strength, shrinkage & stiffness. We have gotten the satisfactory level compared to regular. The findings come due to dissipation the yarn into two layers along with finer count rather than regular denim.

Introduction

Denim is a most popular dress material that has acclaimed most popularity in the past three decades [1]. Although in 1969 a writer for American Fabrics magazine declared, “Denim is one of the world’s oldest fabrics, yet it remains eternally young”. Thermal insulation properties are very important from the point of view of thermal comfort of the clothing user as well as protective efficiency against low or high temperature [2].

Now a day trying hard to use special denim fabric as regular use by enhancing comfort, thermal insulation, thickness & like any other properties using various yarn count, type of yarn, texture, design, structure etc. Because thermal comfort properties of textile materials have gained the attention of researchers in recent times [3]. When denim was introduced into the market, an attempt was made to produce cotton denim style using 100% Polyester threads in 1980’s period [1]. Considering comfort factor, spandex is use in denim [4] but it cannot be covered all the requirements that is needed in winter based country. Double-layered weft knitted fabrics for leisure sports were designed with physiological and thermal comfort in mind whereas double cloth is designed for good thermal properties, appearance and feeling [5]. One layer (outer) was made from cotton yarns or man-made bamboo yarns and the other one (inner) was from synthetic fiber yarns (polypropylene, polyester and polyamide). The main goal of this study was to investigate the influence of knitting structure, fiber type, and yarn properties on the air and water vapor permeability of double-layered weft knitted fabrics [6]. Greyson [7] and Havenith [8] mentioned that heat and water vapor resistance increases with the increasing of thickness and air trapped in the fabric.

Woven fabric multi-layer structure, the warp and weft densities, and the type of weave factors has a positive effect to transmit air, heat energy, and liquid perspiration [9]. With time being new fabric structure, based on double honeycomb fabric with self-stitching is developed. The honeycomb air pockets exhibit trap air & increases fabric thickness. Thus, the opportunity to improve thermal comfort could be achieved. Finally, they test abrasion resistance, and air permeability. The results showed that the innovated structure had higher values of thermal insulation [10]. However, many researchers have immeasurable contribution to develop denim sector progress with concerning consumer demand. In Conventional woven cloth- double cloth mechanism is use but no specified journal is published. However most prior we know, in denim sector there is no any comprehensive study were done on regular double cloth structure previously. This is the new and innovative idea on denim for value addition and retention consumer to the denim market, also fulfillment the current consumer demand. The Aim of the study is to manufactured denim fabric in accordance with double cloth structure & checking the suitability in denim. That will exhibit comfort feeling, thermal insulation property, thickness & may be use for winter season. The objectives of the study are to compare different properties such as appearance, tensile strength with traditional denim (3/1 twill) and its possibility. It is noted that smoothness, softness and stiffness determine the physical and mechanical properties. Easily compressible and bending fabric to be deemed soft, not stiff.

Materials and Methods

The experimental work was conducted in modern weaving laboratory at Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology (DUET). we had used 30s/1 & 20s/1 – 100 % cotton (CW) indigo dyed yarn (collected from Amber Denim Ltd, Gazipur) & polytex 17 (One-shot) as a sizing chemical by some selected structure. The following table shows that the yarn tenacity, tested by strength testing machine of Testometric Company with ASTM 2256-02 method.

Procedure

Sample fabrics (50 inch X 15 inch) were woven by a CCI (EVER GREEN 500) desk loom with electronic dobby shedding mechanism and rapier weft insertion system. The warp sheet was prepared by a sample warping machine (SW 550), and sized with a sample sizing machine (SS 600). Before sizing we had made double cloth design by Textronics dobby CAD with three selected design. A movable machine is used to transfer held shaft, reed and weavers beam easily in loom after finishing the drawing and denting. Ironing is carried out & tested after desizing, enzyme wash.

Methods

All samples were tested according to ISO 139, under the standard testing conditions, i. e. temperature of 20 ± 2 °C and 65 ± 2% relative humidity (RH), and all samples were conditioned for at least 4 h before tests. We had followed the state method- ASTM D5034 for tensile (Grab) test by strength testing machine of Testometric Company; ASTM D3776-96(2002) methods for mass per unit area by GSM cutter; ASTM D1388-2007 for Stiffness tester by Shirley Stiffness tester.

Results and Discussions

Assessment of Visual AppearanceUsually appearance of double cloth fabric to be different with compared to denim. Our main goal is provided denim appearance incorporating double cloth structure. The following manufactured sample are examined visually & compared with regular denim shown in figure 1. 2 We can mention that appearance of double cloth denim & basic denim almost same.

Assessment of Physical & Mechanical Properties

The physical and mechanical properties of manufactured fabrics are affected by the fiber type, yarn construction and fabric structure, as well as any treatment that may have been applied to the materials. In case of double cloth, we have tested four important property such that Weight (GSM), Tensile strength, Shrinkage & Stiffness. After testing we had compared with single layer denim (3/1 twill).

Tensile Strength

Generally tensile strength depends on yarn count, yarn strength, yarn crimp, weave construction, no of layer etc. We can see from table 1. 2- R1 rating has minimum and R3 rating maximum. Although all sample are produced from same type yarn but result is not same. Here weave factor is major concern. We know that if interlacement is more then strength will be more. Albeit construction of Basic (3/1), R1 & R2 are same but strength is higher of basic (3/1). Because yarn spacing relatively low than R1 & R2. On the contrary, since yarn are dissipate into two layer in case of R3 but strength is greater than basic (3/1). Because of that interlacement of yarn in fabric is high & total force is divided into two layer.

In general concept, double cloth conveys high GSM. Although developed sample is double denim but its GSM is less than single layer (3/1) denim that can see from table 1. 4. Fabric with single or double cloth its GSM totally depend on EPI, PPI, warp count and weft count. We could preserve GSM in double cloth denim by adjusting face & back fabric warp ratio, EPI, PPI and count of warp & weft yarn.

Stiffness

We know that if bending length is high then fabric will be stiffer. In single denim fabric contain more bending length because of compact state than double cloth denim, considering constant GSM for both. In double cloth denim warp & weft yarn are divided into two layer, so it will be form less compact resulting less bending length that can see from the table 1. 5- bending length is less than single layer denim (3/1). Since double cloth denim is less stiffness, so it will enhance softness and comfort ability on body.

Conclusions

Now-a-days denim garment are most desirable and fashionable in the market. But it is not vastly applicable in all kind of garments (such as top wear, child and ladies wear) because of less comfort ability and softness. So, in this study double cloth structure is applied in denim with few selected structure by 30s /1, 20s /1 cotton yarn. Design is done by Textronics & sample made by CCI sample loom in narrow width. Developed sample are washed (desize & enzyme). In the study three samples are developed and visual appearance, Tensile strength, GSM, Stiffness are tested. Test result shows that developed sample are more comfort (affects thermo-physiological comfort) than normal denim without any compromising of strength and GSM.

In the meantime, other properties remain almost constant. This work shown that double cloth structure is possible in denim. In the developed double cloth denim, such limitations are kicked off and for this reason versatile application of double cloth denim can be possible & due to loosen structure on bottom it exhibits comfort. The warmth of a fabric is due to insulation provided by air trapped. Such versatile application like top garments, baby & kids wear, jacket, coat, cloth for winter season etc. vastly. Finally, it can say that double cloth structure may create new era in denim sector by satisfying consumer needs. It is noted that, the double cloth structure of denim may be manufactured by cloth interchange technique, combination with indigo & reactive blue color yarn to found check effect after washing as well as various yarn types with various design derivatives can be applied as back fabric. Also, double cloth may exhibit more trapped air such honey comb weave in bottom layer.