British Fashion: the Rich and Complex History of 20th Century

Fashion is one of the most influential aspects of society and it has undergone colossal historical change, in particular British Women’s fashion. The 20th century was a transformative era in British fashion, marked by radical changes in clothing styles and designs. Women's fashion, in particular, underwent significant shifts, reflecting broader social, political, and cultural changes. From the early years of the century, through the World Wars, the post-war period, and into the swinging sixties, fashion evolved rapidly, reflecting new ideas, trends, and attitudes.

Before the early 1900s, most British fashion could be traced back to the royal family or came into prominence because of them. The British Royal family has been a constant source for inspiration in the fashion industry, with their corsets to try and replicate Queen Elizabeth I’s slim figure or in the modern world, the elegance and simplicity from Kate Middleton’s outfits. Fashion and British culture are very much entwined in history as well as modern times.

The 1920s introduced the idea of simplicity and convenience. With World War I being a key feature in the lives of the British, fashion itself became more structured and practical as there were more jobs that needed a uniform or trousers. As more men had to vacate their jobs in order to fight in the war, more and more women were recruited for jobs that were stereotypically ‘male’. The number of female workers kept increasing and soon they demanded equal pay. This is what lead to the daring outfits of the 1920s which was a reflection of the new freedoms women were obtaining. This new ideology about women being equal to men continued through to World War II, as it was becoming more acceptable for women to wear trousers because of the rationing of fabric and their new ‘masculine’ jobs. This was a huge breakthrough in the fashion industry as women had only ever worn long skirts and dresses, and wearing pants were considered to be masculine as it was the men who had jobs where they were required to get their hands dirty. For many women, wearing pants was a form of practicality and comfort, as their legs were protected and they could move around freely. This was a huge advancement not only for women’s rights but for fashion all around the world.

By the time the 1950s came around, fashion for British women had changed drastically. The war had ended and the country had become more prosperous, thus women had began to enjoy more stylish clothing. Classic full skirts and tailored suits crept into the industry and has had inspired designers up until today. The 1950s was also the first time the market had opened up to teenagers. The concept of looking and dressing differently to your parents was an exciting one and so girls wore brightly coloured, patterned dresses, with tight waists and wide skirts. Britain had been introduced to capris (close-fitting pants tapered trousers for women), tight tops and flat shoes; these were the most popular clothing items for teenagers at the time.

The 1960s was an age of fashion innovation for women. The invention of drainpipe jeans (also known as skinny jeans) became overwhelming popular because of the rising equality for women. The drainpipe jeans was one of the first pieces of unisex clothing and it is still extremely popular in modern day society. Although the early 1960s consisted of remnants form the 50s, it was rapidly becoming one of the greatest decades in fashion history. It was bi-polar; with bright, dazzling colours, long hair and beards, tie-dye shirts weren’t uncommon. Modern fashion had also come into play when Mary Quant invented the mini skirt, which later became an inspiration to the world. She managed to turn thigh-skimming super-short hemlines into an international trend. The 1960s also saw the first time that people began to affiliate clothing with social status.

The 1970s saw the theme of individual style, flares, platforms, fringing and suede dominating the fashion industry. Polyester was the material of choice and bright colours were everywhere. Men and women alike were wearing tight- fitting pants and platform shoes. The early 1970s was a fun and exaggerated era for fashion. It was a continuation of some of the best elements of the 60s and exaggerated them. The bell bottoms that were so endeared had gone out of style and tracksuit pants were all the rage. Culottes and robes were also very popular. Chest hair, polyester, butterfly collars, bell bottoms, skin-tight t-shirts, sandals, flower patterned dress shirts, sideburns and tennis headbands are just some of the major trends that occurred in the 1970s. But the most common theme that can be traced throughout the 70s, are the tight-fitting pants. Almost every woman could be seen wearing pants that it was almost as if the fight to wear them had never existed.  

In conclusion, British women's fashion underwent a remarkable transformation throughout the 20th century. Designers such as Mary Quant, Vivienne Westwood, and Alexander McQueen pushed the boundaries of what was possible in fashion, creating new styles and challenging traditional gender norms. Moreover, fashion provided a means of self-expression for women, allowing them to experiment with different identities and messages. From the practicalities of daily dressing to the symbolic power of clothing, fashion played a vital role in shaping the experiences and identities of British women throughout the 20th century. Overall, this essay has highlighted the rich and complex history of British women's fashion, and the ways in which it reflected and contributed to the social, cultural, and political changes of the era.